BMW E46 Oil filter housing O ring and gasket replacement guide, How to.
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  1. #1
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    BMW E46 Oil filter housing O ring and gasket replacement guide, How to.

    BMW E46 Oil filter housing gasket replacement guide. How to change your oil filter housing gasket.

    You follow this guide at your own risk, the information here is given freely and it is up to the user how to interpret and use that information. We accept no responsibility for any damage or injury to you, your vehicle or equipment if you choose to use the information offered to you.

    Today we will be changing numbers 4, 5 and 6 in this picture here to cure our oil leak.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...68&hg=11&fg=30

    Get the car jacked up safely and securely on to axle stands. A general guide can be found below.
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...Jacking_Up.htm

    Remove your engine undertray/undershield if fitted.
    The vehicle was having a oil change so I drained the oil now and worked on a hot engine, you may wish to perform this after the gasket change has been performed. Take your pick.

    Engine bay.
    The air filter box and cruise control actuator will need removing.



    First of all remove the Cruise control actuator from it's fixings and move it to the side with the cable still attached. Tools, a ratchet, extension and 10mm socket.


    Then the clips that hold the air filter feed on. Tools, Pliers.


    Slacken the "Jubilee clip" that holds the induction pipe to the Mass Air flow sensor(MAF) and disconnect the MAF plug.
    Tools, Ratchet and 7mm socket.



    Then remove the airbox.


    Next remove the 10mm nuts that hold the Power Steering reservoir in place, move the reservoir away, then release the tension on the serpentine belt(turning anti clockwise) using a spanner on the tensioner pulley nut. Tools, 15mm spanner.



    Remove the oil filter from it's housing, this will allow some of the oil to drain in to the sump.
    You can see here some of the oil mess where it has been leaking from the gasket.



    Disconnect the engine power cable from the engine power point on the drivers side bulkhead. Tools, 19mm spanner or a ratchet with 19mm socket.


    Slacken and remove the top alternator bolt and lower alternator bolt. Tools, ratchet and 16mm socket.



    Pull the alternator away from it's fixing, sometimes a pry bar comes in handy as they can be stubborn. Once the alternator is free remove the alternator main power lead (13mm nut) and disconnect the black plug.
    Alternator removed.


    Now remove the 5 bolts that secure the alternator bracket to the engine block. The front lower one is a little hidden. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 13mm socket.


    Then disconnect the oil pressure switch plug.


    Put a tray under the car ready for the housing removal,(remove the undershield!). Remove the 6 bolts that secure the oil filter housing to the engine block and pull away the oil filter housing and then remove the "oil pressure relief valve/bush". Tools, Ratchet, extension and 10mm socket.




    The O rings on the "relief valve/bush" flatten out over time and go hard, you can see that in the next 3 pictures, both broke/tore when removing them.




    Clean all of the surfaces up and the oil filter housing, remember cleanliness is next to godliness and seeing as a car has no God then cleanliness must come first!


    Now it's time to put it all back together! Fit your new gasket and "relief valve/bush" A little lube on the O rings will aid fitment. You may wish to use some suitable sealant sparingly on the gasket faces.


    Fit and tighten up your oil filter housing and reconnect, make sure you line up the gasket correctly! Mmmm, clean. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 10mm socket. Torque(M6 bolts). 11 Newton Metres.



    Fit and tighten up your alternator bracket. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 13mm socket. Torque(M8 bolts). 25 Newton Metres.


    Fit and tighten up your alternator and reconnect the plug and power lead. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 16mm socket. Torque(M10 bolts). 50 Newton Metres.


    Everything else is a reversal of removal. Fit your serpentine belt(alternator belt), PAS reservoir, air filter box and cruise controller then lastly reconnect your power cable back to the engine jump point.

    If you haven't you should now perform a oil change seeing as you are fitting a new oil filter and O rings. You can pour some fresh oil and half fill the oil filter housing and quickly fit the new filter/top to aid oil pressure at start up. Horses for courses, you take your pick.

    Once the car is correctly back together and the oil change has been performed and fresh oil added you can start the vehicle and check for any leaks!(hopefully not if you've done your job correctly).



    Job done, enjoy your reduced oil usage.
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  2. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Ronnie For This Useful Post:

    Ferret (25-05-2012),Kevin Whittaker (25-05-2012),NealP (25-05-2012),Niall_farley (25-05-2012),RobbieV (25-05-2012),Stal1878 (25-05-2012)

  3. #2
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    Nice write up Ronnie - looks like a proper job that.

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  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Kevin Whittaker For This Useful Post:

    Ronnie (25-05-2012)

  5. #3
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    Excellent guide
    BMW E46 330ci Sport

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    Ronnie (25-05-2012)

  7. #4
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    Cheers guys, I aim to please and do something perfect first time

    It still needs the headgasket doing AGAIN as the previous garage couldn't have done it properly and it is leaking oil from a few other places.
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  8. #5
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    Question, do you always fit that gasket "dry"???

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  9. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Whittaker View Post
    Question, do you always fit that gasket "dry"???
    I did on this job, no sealant is used from new and I had every faith in the new gasket and my skills that it wouldn't leak for another 14 years, also I'll be honest the DIY is a bit mix and match on the pictures as I was at work when doing it, so needed to be quick, hence there are some items removed then they are there again in some pics,
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  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Ronnie For This Useful Post:

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  11. #7
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    I don't have this engine so its no use to me, but nice guide

    Do some for the M54 engine

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    Ronnie (25-05-2012)

  13. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    I did on this job, no sealant is used from new and I had every faith in the new gasket and my skills that it wouldn't leak for another 14 years, also I'll be honest the DIY is a bit mix and match on the pictures as I was at work when doing it, so needed to be quick, hence there are some items removed then they are there again in some pics,
    I have faith in your skills too mate.... I was just "taught" another way many years ago and it's just stuck (no pun intended). It stems from building $h1t old engines (Ford/Lotus) with dog$h1t gaskets I guess.

    I usually use Permabond A136 (CORVETTE ZR-1 LT5 PERMABOND A-136 ANAEROBIC SEALANT | eBay) or Wellseal (STAG WELLSEAL HEAD GASKET SEAL SEALING JOINTING COMPOUND 100ML NEW | eBay)

    I know that most German car manufacturers make decent enough castings/engines and if you use a OEM or decent quality gasket it shouldn't be a problem if you clean things up well and torque things up properly - but in some instances it's better to take extra precautions...

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  14. The Following User Says Thank You to Kevin Whittaker For This Useful Post:

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    Cracking guide Roonie

    2 guides in one here - The second being how to remove an alternator


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  17. #10
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    great pics and "how 2" ronnie..i was looking at mine since i brought it, and have oil thick crud around the oil filter housing ,and wonderd how was going to do it..really good pics and informative, from start to finish. (you should have your own show m8) p.s allso helps i have same engine as you ron..keep up those pics in your "how 2s"

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to Dal For This Useful Post:

    Ronnie (05-08-2013)

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