BMW E46 Oil filter housing gasket replacement guide. How to change your oil filter housing gasket.
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Today we will be changing numbers 4, 5 and 6 in this picture here to cure our oil leak.
Get the car jacked up safely and securely on to axle stands. A general guide can be found below.
Remove your engine undertray/undershield if fitted.
The vehicle was having a oil change so I drained the oil now and worked on a hot engine, you may wish to perform this after the gasket change has been performed. Take your pick.
The air filter box and cruise control actuator will need removing.
First of all remove the Cruise control actuator from it's fixings and move it to the side with the cable still attached. Tools, a ratchet, extension and 10mm socket.
Then the clips that hold the air filter feed on. Tools, Pliers.
Slacken the "Jubilee clip" that holds the induction pipe to the Mass Air flow sensor(MAF) and disconnect the MAF plug.
Tools, Ratchet and 7mm socket.
Then remove the airbox.
Next remove the 10mm nuts that hold the Power Steering reservoir in place, move the reservoir away, then release the tension on the serpentine belt(turning anti clockwise) using a spanner on the tensioner pulley nut. Tools, 15mm spanner.
Remove the oil filter from it's housing, this will allow some of the oil to drain in to the sump.
You can see here some of the oil mess where it has been leaking from the gasket.
Disconnect the engine power cable from the engine power point on the drivers side bulkhead. Tools, 19mm spanner or a ratchet with 19mm socket.
Slacken and remove the top alternator bolt and lower alternator bolt. Tools, ratchet and 16mm socket.
Pull the alternator away from it's fixing, sometimes a pry bar comes in handy as they can be stubborn. Once the alternator is free remove the alternator main power lead (13mm nut) and disconnect the black plug.
Now remove the 5 bolts that secure the alternator bracket to the engine block. The front lower one is a little hidden. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 13mm socket.
Then disconnect the oil pressure switch plug.
Put a tray under the car ready for the housing removal,(remove the undershield!). Remove the 6 bolts that secure the oil filter housing to the engine block and pull away the oil filter housing and then remove the "oil pressure relief valve/bush". Tools, Ratchet, extension and 10mm socket.
The O rings on the "relief valve/bush" flatten out over time and go hard, you can see that in the next 3 pictures, both broke/tore when removing them.
Clean all of the surfaces up and the oil filter housing, remember cleanliness is next to godliness and seeing as a car has no God then cleanliness must come first!
Now it's time to put it all back together! Fit your new gasket and "relief valve/bush" A little lube on the O rings will aid fitment. You may wish to use some suitable sealant sparingly on the gasket faces.
Fit and tighten up your oil filter housing and reconnect, make sure you line up the gasket correctly! Mmmm, clean. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 10mm socket. Torque(M6 bolts). 11 Newton Metres.
Fit and tighten up your alternator bracket. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 13mm socket. Torque(M8 bolts). 25 Newton Metres.
Fit and tighten up your alternator and reconnect the plug and power lead. Tools, Ratchet, extension and 16mm socket. Torque(M10 bolts). 50 Newton Metres.
Everything else is a reversal of removal. Fit your serpentine belt(alternator belt), PAS reservoir, air filter box and cruise controller then lastly reconnect your power cable back to the engine jump point.
If you haven't you should now perform a oil change seeing as you are fitting a new oil filter and O rings. You can pour some fresh oil and half fill the oil filter housing and quickly fit the new filter/top to aid oil pressure at start up. Horses for courses, you take your pick.
Once the car is correctly back together and the oil change has been performed and fresh oil added you can start the vehicle and check for any leaks!(hopefully not if you've done your job correctly).
Job done, enjoy your reduced oil usage.