E46 330 New MAF and new fault codes!
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  1. #1
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    New MAF and new fault codes!

    Had Motor symbol (yellow) appear, reset with INPA with Bank1, Bank2 amd MAF, a few times. Cause it is unlikely that both O2 sensors would fail at the same time I went for a new MAF (after cleaning did not help). Now with new MAF (From QH not a cheap chinese alibaba .com Piece of rubbish!) I hope? Now the engine light is out but after about 20 mins of driving the yellow brake light combined with the DSC yellow light followed closely by the EML yellow light. Have reset twice and hoped that the MAF would Need to communicate with the ECU and it would settle. But after reading the codes the Idle Control Valve (ICV) is showing as mechanicaly stuck open plus Bank1 and Bank2 codes.

    After googling :-

    1. Idle valve stuck open?
    2. Wheel sensors not communicating with module correctly?
    3. MAF not compatible with ECU (I bought the Thing from a reputable ar parts place using the cars "schlussel Number" which here in Germany is very specific to your cars type and manufacture date.

    Anyone got an idea? (will start with ICV cleaning tomorrow but I find it unlikely that it is stuck as the other warnings are sort of not consistent)
    Last edited by Bratty; 06-12-2017 at 19:20.

  2. #2
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    Bratty's Avatar
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    The fault codes that were displayed were Yellow "ASC", "DSC" and "EML", they would reset themselves when the ignition was turned Off then back On, for about Three times then they would Display again closely followed by the Yellow "Motor Management Light" which stays on and requires to be extinguished with INPA.

    So I stripped out the airbox, MAF, DISA and air ducting to the throttle Body to get Access to the Idle Control Valve (ICV), relatively easy except for the clamps on the lower rubber duct going to the throttle Body and the small one to the IDV itself. They must of been assembled at the factory before the Motor went in as the heads on the clamps are seriously not easy to Access, ended up removing the ICV and having to Twist the small rubber duct to get to the head which enevitably after 14 years meant it split! New one was cheap (under a tenner from BMW) and to be honest if you are going to do this Job it might be prudent to pre-order one.

    Once the ICV is removed you can test it by rotating in your Hand rapidly and the valve inside should be free to rattle back and fore , mine was sticking so just freed it up using brake cleaner and a cotton-bud. After rebuilding (locating the clamps on the lower ducting so that they can be installed/removed in the future without having to damage the duct) reset all the codes using INPA and did a Long test-drive. Happy to Report "No More Codes".

    Still find it strange what the ICV sticking has to do with "DSC" and "ASC"
    Last edited by Bratty; 06-12-2017 at 18:39.

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