E36 316 air lock in system...help!
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  1. #1
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    air lock in system...help!

    So, it appears that there was an airlock in my system.... releasing it was fun!!!




    Thats some serious overheating!! (and yes the water is always kept topped up! )

    Question is... WHY??

    After some digging round, it appears the most common cause is the thermostat housing, causing a fault with the thermostat itself also. I'm hoping that it is not anything more sinister. what else could be the problem?

    Anybody else had this problem? Any advice?

    The water was flowing back into the expansion tank... so no problems with the water pump?

    (sorry for the randomness of the post.... Boss is hovering!!)

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    when you bleed it you need to have the front as high up as you can IE a steep hill or high up on axle stands

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    That's either got a massive airlock and the coolant is hitting a red hot spot in the engine, which is making it bubble up like that badly OR it has a circulation issue.

    How to bleed the cooling system.
    1.Jack the front of the vehicle up onto stands as high as possible,
    2.Turn the ignition on to Aux 2, Engine OFF, heater on fan setting 1 and temperature fully hot,
    3.Remove the rad cap/expansion cap,remove the bleed screw from the radiator and IF you have them the bleed screw(s) from the thermostat housing/top hose, return pipe or EGR thermostat.
    4.Fill the radiator/expansion tank up and keep pouring till there are no more air bubbles coming out from the bleeds, using a funnel that fits tight in the expansion tank neck and filling it full of water will help push any troublesome air out, when good you can then install the bleeds and tighten down(don't snap them),ensure the rubber O-rings/seals are still on the screws/on the bleed holes.
    5.Suck some water out so it's not full to the brim, start the car up and check coolant shoots out of the small hole on the inside of the expansion tank neck when the revs are held up, if it does then replace the cap and then run the car up and check for heat from the vents when the car is warm, then carry on and check if over heating still persists. You may have to bleed troublesome cars again afterwards.(but very rare).
    6.If all is good then check the water level again in the morning when cool.

    or

    Ignition on, heater set to hot, bleed screw out.
    Pull the top hose off the radiator. Pour coolant SLOWLY down the rad hose a litre at a time. When the coolant is building up in the hose, hold it above the level of the rad hose stub and keep adding it. When coolant starts to dribble from the rad, refit the hose. You may find that coolant starts to overflow from the rad cap orifice - if it does, just screw the cap back on. Once you've done that, the engine and radiator are full of coolant - the little air pockets that might be left will come through the bleed screw.

    After the vehicle is bled you should check that when the revs are held up you get a flow of coolant shooting out of the hole in the inside of the expansion tank neck, this will help tell you if the water pump is circulating, then run the car up and check the lower radiator hose gets hot. You could also get a "block test" performed to tell you whether the headgasket has gone.
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    Vix (23-06-2012)

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    That's either got a massive airlock and the coolant is hitting a red hot spot in the engine, which is making it bubble up like that badly OR it has a circulation issue.

    How to bleed the cooling system.
    1.Jack the front of the vehicle up onto stands as high as possible,
    2.Turn the ignition on to Aux 2, Engine OFF, heater on fan setting 1 and temperature fully hot,
    3.Remove the rad cap/expansion cap,remove the bleed screw from the radiator and IF you have them the bleed screw(s) from the thermostat housing/top hose, return pipe or EGR thermostat.
    4.Fill the radiator/expansion tank up and keep pouring till there are no more air bubbles coming out from the bleeds, using a funnel that fits tight in the expansion tank neck and filling it full of water will help push any troublesome air out, when good you can then install the bleeds and tighten down(don't snap them),ensure the rubber O-rings/seals are still on the screws/on the bleed holes.
    5.Suck some water out so it's not full to the brim, start the car up and check coolant shoots out of the small hole on the inside of the expansion tank neck when the revs are held up, if it does then replace the cap and then run the car up and check for heat from the vents when the car is warm, then carry on and check if over heating still persists. You may have to bleed troublesome cars again afterwards.(but very rare).
    6.If all is good then check the water level again in the morning when cool.

    or

    Ignition on, heater set to hot, bleed screw out.
    Pull the top hose off the radiator. Pour coolant SLOWLY down the rad hose a litre at a time. When the coolant is building up in the hose, hold it above the level of the rad hose stub and keep adding it. When coolant starts to dribble from the rad, refit the hose. You may find that coolant starts to overflow from the rad cap orifice - if it does, just screw the cap back on. Once you've done that, the engine and radiator are full of coolant - the little air pockets that might be left will come through the bleed screw.

    After the vehicle is bled you should check that when the revs are held up you get a flow of coolant shooting out of the hole in the inside of the expansion tank neck, this will help tell you if the water pump is circulating, then run the car up and check the lower radiator hose gets hot. You could also get a "block test" performed to tell you whether the headgasket has gone.
    this should be a sticky as it always comes up about air locks.


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  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by carl robson View Post
    this should be a sticky as it always comes up about air locks.
    From today it is posted in the 3 Series Guides section,

    http://www.bmwforums.info/3-series-g...html#post32411
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  9. #6
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    Thanks guys!!! We managed to bleed it out and Car has been running fine since.

    How do I stop it from happening again? Is it a common thing?
    Never had this issue with any of my Vauxhalls so not come across it before!

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    Ronnie (25-06-2012)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vix View Post
    Thanks guys!!! We managed to bleed it out and Car has been running fine since.

    How do I stop it from happening again? Is it a common thing?
    Never had this issue with any of my Vauxhalls so not come across it before!
    The issue will only rear it's ugly head if you have a coolant leak, it does it when you get air in the cooling system, so if you have the issue again then you need to get the cooling system checked for a leak.
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