E36 323 Holding back on over run and general unresponsiveness.
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  1. #1
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    Seismic22's Avatar
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    Holding back on over run and general unresponsiveness.

    Hi again,

    As per the title, the car doesnt slow down smoothly upon taking my foot off the accelerator. It seems to slow down smoothly initally then hold back then carry on. The car also seems to be increasingly unresponsive and not as powerful as it used to be.

    Things possibly worthy of noting???:

    • Last month the car had a genuine BMW crank sensor fitted.
    • The injectors are not loud in anyway and so I presume the cam sensor is ok.
    • The car had a new throttle body boot fitted a few months ago.
    • Car is running a standard 328i exhaust system.
    • Up until 2 weeks ago the traction control light kept coming on due to an engine mount breaking and the TPS sensor (???) smacking on the underside of the bonnet. Mount changed and light gone.
    • Car was plugged in using INPA 3 weeks ago and nothing other than traction control light issue was flagged up.


    Any suggestions welcome!

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    e36coupe-328's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seismic22 View Post
    the car doesnt slow down smoothly upon taking my foot off the accelerator. It seems to slow down smoothly initally then hold back then carry on
    These cars cut the fuel supply on the overrun so the engine is essentially "off" and free wheeling at that point as there is nothing flammable going into the combustion chanmbers.
    If you have an 18 button OBC you can confirm this by unlocking it and invoking test 2 and seeing the amount of litres per 100KM going to 0 on the over run.

    (FYI 100 KM = 62 miles so anything less than 9.1 is over 30 mpg )


    Point is if you foot is off the throttle and no fuel going in then you are effectively engine braking which means either you are mistaken or you have a bizarre issue
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    Seismic22 (18-10-2012)

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seismic22 View Post
    As per the title, the car doesnt slow down smoothly upon taking my foot off the accelerator. It seems to slow down smoothly initally then hold back then carry on.
    would be a good idea to look at the brakes as you might have a sticky caliper

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    Seismic22 (18-10-2012)

  6. #4
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    Hi,

    Thanks guys. Yes I understand the fuel cut off which is why I'm head scratching. Up until last weekend I had two 323i's (long story) so I could compare them back to back and my current one is definitely holding back on over run/deceleration in some way!

    Caliper is a good sugegstion I guess, it just feels engine related. Hopefully I'm wrong..

  7. #5
    Sometimes the world is still flat, especially if you can't see as far as the horizon
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    e36coupe-328's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seismic22 View Post
    Caliper is a good sugegstion I guess, it just feels engine related. Hopefully I'm wrong..
    Caliper drag would be there from the moment you lifted off though
    No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.

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    Seismic22 (22-10-2012)

  9. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by e36coupe-328 View Post
    Caliper drag would be there from the moment you lifted off though
    Agreed..

  10. #7
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    Late last week noticed excessive brake dust on O/S/F wheel and then when driving home on Friday it became clear that the caliper was stuck on. Managed to get the caliper off and it had really had it and the piston couldnt be worked in and out, it was opbviously far to corroded. Anywayyyyy sticky caliper is not the cause of the problem reported in this thread all calipers are now ok.

    Back on track......... Saturday afternoon, started the car from cold drove off and pulled up at traffic lights and on idle the Revs started fluctuating quite alot going up to 2000+rpm and the back down again. It did this until I pulled away. After that it didnt do it and hasnt done it again since. Does this help to give any more clues as to what the issue is?

  11. #8
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    start with looking for an air leak in the indution pipes
    then a vacum leak
    then clean the ICV
    then the MAF
    if its still there after that you need a code read

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  13. #9
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    Best way to check for vacum leaks?

    Thanks

  14. #10
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    UPDATE:

    Changed the Throttle position sensor for a second hand item i grabbed from the scrappies (3 pounds!) and christ the car drives so much better! Cant believe I've been driving her like she was, so much torque I hadnt realised had been lost is now back and just as importantly she now coasts to a stop in gear slowly and smoothly and doesn't feel like the brakes are on! Very Happy.

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