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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/18 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    So after years of wanting an E46 M3 and years of bottling out and buying different cars only to look at M3s that same evening, I am now finally a proud owner of my realistic dream car.
  2. 1 point
    Ahhh, another noise has developed. Got it booked in for Monday, lets see what it is now... Broken, but still very pretty:
  3. 1 point
    Had an arctic silver e36 convertible with full m3 running gear, sold that in February and bought an e82 sport plus edition. So far I’ve fitted a spoiler, iceduk and myself lowered it with ebaich springs, fitted Darkline high led rear lights. Set of csl style wheels
  4. 1 point
    BMW X3, X5 CV boot, CV joint replacement guide. Jack up the car and place an axle stand under the vehicle. Remove the wheel and loosen and remove the driveshaft nut. Using a drift/punch, tap the driveshaft through the hub, you won't be able to get it fully out yet though. Undo both of the lower suspension arms, inner bolts. Pull the hub away from the driveshaft, you may have to use a punch/drift still to get the driveshaft out of the hub. Pull and twist the hub out of the way so you can get easy access to the CV joint. Cut the old CV boot clips off and cut the old CV boot off. I clamp the driveshaft with some vice grips/molegrips, to stop the driveshaft moving outwards, then hit the old CV joint off from the end of the shaft. Clean the old CV grease from the shaft, then slide your new CV boot onto the shaft. If fitting a new CV joint, fill the inside of the joint with fresh grease. Tap the CV joint back onto the shaft, then resecure the CV boot to the joint and shaft. You can now fit the parts in reverse order from when you took them apart. You should grease the splines on the end of the CV joint to stop it rusting inside the hub. Remember to torque your suspension arm bolts, driveshaft nut and wheel bolts to their required torques.
  5. 1 point
    BMW Z4 rear spring replacement DIY guide. As you can see this spring has seen better days, the bottom piece has broken completely off. Remove the rear wheel. See here the bottom of the spring is missing. Use a jack or similar and support under the rear hub, this will stop the hub from firing down when you remove the lower shock absorber bolt. Undo the lower shock absorber bolt. Lower the jack from under the rear hub and pull/lever down on the rear hub and pull out the broken rear spring. Here you can see the difference between old and new. Pull down/lever down the rear hub and fit the new spring. Jack up the rear hub and fit and tighten the rear shock absorber bolt. Refit your wheel and torque up the wheel bolts. Job done.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    BMW 5 series E39 rear pads, discs and handbrake shoe replacement. Loosen rear wheel bolts, jack the rear of your car up, place axle stands underneath and then remove your wheels. Pull the handbrake gaiter out and using a suitable socket, slacken off the handbrake cables. Rotate the disc until you can see the brake shoe adjusting wheel. De-adjust the shoe adjuster using a screwdriver. Remove the caliper securing spring. Remove the brake pad sensor. Remove the 2 plastic caps then using a 7mm Allen key, remove the Allen key bolts. Remove the brake pads then undo and remove the caliper frame securing bolts.(16mm) Remove the disc retaining Allen key bolt(6mm) Using a hammer, give the disc a sharp hard hit to slacken the disc from the hub, then pull the disc off from the hub. You can see here the inner handbrake surface is pretty rusty, compromising the shoes gripping the disc. Using a 5mm Allen key, remove the shoe retaining pins. To remove the shoes, I use a long screwdriver on the top spring and lever against the hub to remove the spring, then pull the complete shoe set down with the bottom spring and adjuster still attached to the shoes.(New shoes in pics as I was in a rush) Clean up the brake back plate with a wire brush, clean up the adjuster and handbrake fulcrum/lock, then lightly grease up the contact points,(be careful not to get carried away as any grease over the shoes will negatively impact performance), grease up your adjuster threads and your handbrake fulcrum/lock, then refit your handbrake lock to the cable. With your new shoes off from the car, fit the lower spring on the shoes, slide in the adjuster, then open up the shoes at the top and then slide them over the hub and into position, then secure them with the retaining pins. Now fit your top spring, same principle as when you removed the spring earlier, use a long screwdriver and lever against the hub, double check the shoes are all located correctly on the adjuster and handbrake lock and all springs are fitted correctly You're now ready to fit your disc, make sure the adjuster is fully wound back in as shown below before attempting to fit the new disc. (Ignore the lack of lower spring, photos were taken at different times during work) Fit your new disc minus the Allen key securing bolt, rotate the adjuster until you can no longer rotate the brake disc on the hub, then back off the adjuster 5 clicks, make sure the disc spins easily enough backwards and forwards, you can now fit the disc securing bolt. Clean up your caliper frames, mainly where the brake pads come into contact with the frame, the pads should be able to slide easily in the frames with no great resistance. A wire brush, sandpaper and/or a file can be used. Then copper slip the points where the pads make contact with the frame, make sure you don't spill to much on the inside of the frame, else it will go over the disc when fitting the frame. Bolt up the caliper frame and torque the bolts up to the required setting. You're now ready to push the caliper pistons back, remove the reservoir top and check you have sufficient space for the excess fluid in the reservoir when the pistons are pushed back, else it will overflow out. You can use a syringe or lots of tissue paper to soak up any excess fluid. Apply some brake pad anti squeal to the rear surface of your pads before fitting them, then bolt up your rear caliper, torque it up, fit your anti rattle spring and your new brake pad sensor. Once you're happy everything is fitted correctly, pump the brake pedal to allow the pads to come into contact with the discs, then check your brake fluid level. Fit your wheels and torque them up to the required setting. To extinguish the brake pad warning light, leave the ignition on for 30 seconds, it should reset itself, if it doesn't then check your sensor is connected properly, else you may have a faulty sensor. Later models with iDrive will need to be reset through the dash or with diagnostic equipment. For the first 100 odd miles you should avoid excess heavy braking, to allow the pads to bed in nicely.
  8. 1 point
    You're welcome and thank you!
  9. 1 point
    Big thanks to Stuart and the gang at Harry Fairbairn for my parts delivery today... I know what I will be doing this weekend.😁
  10. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, and what a car you have You've done some great work to the car - And thanks for the rope trick with the sagging trim idea, that'll come in useful
  11. 1 point
    Another shot showing the red interior with the mystic blue. Had to take a dremel to the doorcard which ended up being a massive ballache, but managed to get it on in the end. Just about. Received the wrong part for the footwell trim, which is a bit of a pain. Oh well: Removed the drivers side grey doorcard, found this mirrors switch a little tricky to get out without scratching the armrest: Found this, I know its audio related, but what does it do? On a more positive note: Had my car in the air: So, for reference, here is the front jacking point: Where is the rear jacking point in this pic? Then spent some time with George's CSL (I'm in love): He's building a few track cars for the M3 Cup: So first unclip the boot light: Unclip the wiring and remove it from its holders: There are 3 bolts, 2 are easy to see, one will be in the corner of the light, behind the carpet: Bolts are 10mm. Once you have wiggled the light out, give the area a quick clean, as a bit of crud is likely to have built up: Result: Need to clean the car, but here's another pic: Amber rears - Done LED interior lights Black carpet Black dash Eventuri intake (perhaps) Storm handbrake handle Various interior plastic trims - Done Fog light (has condensation) - will be ordering soon Black centre console (currently using a used, scratched one) - Done Alloys (my current alloys aren't great) CSL style diffuser CSL style boot (couple of rust spots on the bootlid seems a solid reason to upgrade lol) Get a couple of bubbles of rust that has appeared sorted Rear bumper scrape sorted Freshen up the front end as its covered in stone chips Add: Rear discs and pads Oil and filter change AC belt
  12. 1 point
    Received this, mrs was not impressed: My mother kindly took some home to put in to the summer house, so mrs relaxed a little and then said she prefers the colour, so win win Ready to try again on Friday: Ready to fit the aluminium trim that I bought: Noticed a couple of screws missing: Not sure what work was carried out, assuming it was from the audio install but not sure Picked up the replacement screws, should get the trim in tonight. Will post some pics when done: And a few more just came through the letterbox: Aluminium dash trim in: Went to Manchester to visit the inlaws, lovely northern message: Sun caught the bonnet bulge just right: Car is now absolutely filthy, will hopefully rectify this tomorrow, depending on the weather: What the kids leave behind after a long journey: All clean: Another thing to sort: How the mystic blue and red looks: And just a shot of the headrest:
  13. 1 point
    £2066 later I have her back. Definitely a painful bill, but hopefully keeping this one for a while so should even out over the ownership. Will need to put things on hold mods wise for a while to recover lol After a much required clean: This has made a lovely difference though: Noticed some rust bubbles when cleaning the car, was bound to happen I guess: I knew of the sidemirror base when I purchased the car, and was reflected in the final price: Saw this when working on the boot handle: And this on the front driver arch: Frozen Mystic Blue: Saw another Cutter using this so thought I'd make use of a half price sale: So installed this bad boy: And found this...what does it do in the E46? Haha yep thats what I meant, need to get it out as I didn't use it and no longer need it. Fitting all the ables behind the headunit was a ballache so not in a rush to do that lol. KDS Tracking values:
  14. 1 point
    Somebody kindly left me with this: At the very least could of left a sorry note... A friend showed me the 'lace trick' to get a good bond for sagging trim: Result: Mrs treated me to these beauties: All fitted. Love the look! Got these to fit and then just need to source the rears: Part of me thinks I should of just wrapped my current side indicators, just over £20 each is too much...but done now lol Some quick snaps, with a filthy car lol: Got the side markers on whilst on my lunch break, excuse the filthy car: Ordered some clips as when I removed the door card I noticed one was missing, so I did the typical man thing and buy a bunch of them lol: Mrs keeps complaining about having to hold my coffee so ordered the cup holder and coin tray: Will hopefully fit that over the weekend, as well as finally getting the M5 gearknob installed. Upcoming purchases will include: Black centre console Black armrest Rear OEM amber lights Number plate lights Side lights Boot lights Side mirrors as they are turning brown Single din holder and cage Single din headunit Enable the airbag Replace the faulty parts for the airbag :S Fitted the cupholder and coin box: Was really surprised by the difference in size and feel of the M5 gearknob, much much better:
  15. 1 point
    Passenger door handle stopped working from the outside yesterday, a coupe with one working door and two kids is no easy thing, so removed the door panel and noticed it came out of its clip. I have read that a cable tie sorts this but have no idea where to place the cable tie as there didn't seem like there was much space to loop it. Any suggestions: But I found this beautiful thing: Gave her a clean today, and used some 'quick wax': Bit of the mitt stuck in the side lol: Then got my delivery from Prestige: Look forward to trying out the drying towel So started separating the gaiter from the frame: Slow and steady and job half completed: Will hopefully glue the gaiter to the e46 plastic frame tomorrow night ready for install on the weekend.
  16. 1 point
    Gave the engine a quick rub down: I stripped the boot to inspect the wires but wasn't able to find anything obvious. Got the voltmeter out and the microswitch didn't register a voltage when clicked. It seems that the handle is one unit so looks like I will be ordering a new part and have it painted...
  17. 1 point
    First thing that's been annoying me is that someone's let the passenger side front door swing into a wall or similar. There's an exposed bit of trim on the door from which a triangle of material has snapped off. No sign of the triangle, of course. So, new trim is about £40 I think, but then I'd need to do all 4 because the others are a bit worn/weathered and it'd look odd. Not a lot of appetite for that, and I like to fettle so, I got a length of piano black wrap, and some plastic weld. The problem: Let's try it: (at this point I'm thinking this is a bodge too far). Then I remove the backing card: Hmmmm, that's pretty good. I'm pretty happy with that 😀 Should get it refitted tomorrow night. Completely in love with that Plastic Padding stuff, it's awesome. Set fast in 30 minutes and sandable! Ludicrously easy to use. Oh, and some dick has taken it upon themself to paint the surround for the door lock pins in silver. Why? Just fucking why? Anyway, Poundland spray paint and Stella Artois spray booth to the rescue: More boring updates later this week 👍
  18. 1 point
    Cheers mate 👍 Sold the last one and replaced it with an E91 with the same engine. We needed more space at the time but now have a proper (dull) family wagon for hauling stuff so took the chance to get another of these. Really great fun to drive. Will get some interior pictures in the light. I don't really 'mod' cars... OEM+ is more me and the '+' is pretty dull. It'll be clean, perhaps some pressed plates and surrounds. Would dearly love to put an lsd in it but I doubt it'll get the necessary sign off 😂. Oh, the upside of this one not having idrive is that I can replace the HU without losing any functionality so I may be tempted to that and some replacement speakers 👍 Yes Christopher! Couscous. You want some? My logic was smaller particle size than rice, similarly hygroscopic w/w, therefore faster acting. However, it's done fuck all to demist the headlight, so it's basically a discrete carrying location for small amounts of North African staple foods. I am disappoint.
  19. 1 point
    Plastic surround has turned up 😬
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