I have been back to my first haunt. migweb. it was the biggest Vauxhall and car forum back in the day but now seems dead. no responses to my question. so I joined zafira owners club an have 1 guy responding but need more. I still think this site has the best technical knowledge aout there so I am asking for advise. below are my problems. a written on the other site
my fist post 17th feb
I have just replaced the thermostat after finding the end had come off the old one that was fitted to the car. I put in another one and the car seems to run with a bit more oopph. I think its because the sensor attached to it now gets a true engine temp reading as opposed to the reading it was getting with a faulty thermostat letting water run around the engine with out the correct routing.
the problem I have though is the temp in the car isn't that hot. it also loses heat when the dial is turned up and starts blowing cooler air. it also blows cooler if sat in traffic. when the car revs off it warms up a little. on setting 2 it keeps a degree of warmth but any more than that and it blows cooler.
all the pipes seem hot under the bonnet, ie radiator hoses, both hoses to the matrix but it isn't hot in the car. any advice would be great.
I thought the new thermostat would have cured this issue but it has made it slightly worse if anything. car runs better though?
my post yesterday
I will do a recap.
when I bought the car I noticed the car took a while to warm up though the heaters. it had heat just not that great. I changed the pollen filter and could feel it was a little hotter and more powerfull as the old filter was well dirty.
I also checked the thermostat as I thought it might be a reason it was taking a while to heat up. on inspection the stat was missing the end washer and spring. ( I was found in the housing) I only emptied the rad from the bottom hose.
I bought a second hand stat from a scrap yard and tested it opened by using a heat gun as it had an opening temp of 105. hence hot water in a pan didn't work. fitting this one I decided to empty the rad by the drain screw in the far corner, reason being as I wanted to catch as much anti freeze as possible.
after fitting the thermostat I was confident that the car would heat up quicker and be hotter.
How ever the car was blowing cold, heaters were on on full heat and speed and the car was getting hot! but blowing cold. I topped up the coolant as it had dropped a little and took it for a spin. As the revs went up the temp started to appear although not strong and losing heat on faster fan speeds and idleing.
I got the car home and took off the filler cap again. I waited for some thing to happen. the pipes were all hot but the bottom heater matrix pipe was not as hot as the top. I thought it was waiting for the thermostat to open. the reservoir was starting to produce light steam Just. and the two top pipes were putting water in to the top of the bottle.
Next the bottom larger pipe started to put what looked like loads of air bubbles in to the bottle and the water rose and came out of the top. I turned the engine off and the water level dropped. I topped it up and ran the engine again. it did the same thing and I turned the engine off.
I refitted the the cap after topping up the bottle.
I have used the car since and the water pipes to the matrix were both hotter and the temp in the car was hotter, but it still loses it when it idles and when it gets turned up.
so that's were I am right now!
he heater should still be of a decent heat. yes its not circulating as fast but it still circulates passing a constant hot water flow through the pipes. the problem I have is the car heater is blowing a lot cooler when idleing. it stayed warm with decent heat when driving between 2-3k rev today but dropped when below this speed.
I am very confused, the car gets circulating heat at higher revs and keeps it fairly well so divertor flap must be working as it has the initial hot blast. it seems to be warm at these higher revs to, mostly!. the pipes in the bay are all hot. The heater pipes are not as hot as each other still, but not by much.
I tried again to bleed the car today by leaving the expansion cap off. all that happened was when the engine got hot the tank suddenly filled up and over spilled again. revving the car sort of kept it down but when the revs dropped it over spilled again. Strangely though the engine cooling fan never came on?
is the car not sending water around the cooling system properly? water pump maybe, although this is a circular disc type so high unlikely unless there is something trapped in the blades inside restricting the action? or a blockage some where? but why didn't the fan kick in? is there an airlock still causing a false temp reading not letting the fan kick in as the car thinks its cooler than it is?